This is the story of how I battled the mountains, ran through an active landslide, became a member of a family, and conquered the unconquerable Khardung La, while cycling the journey between Manali and Leh.
It all started with my friend Sangeetha, my endurance race and cycling partner. She called me one fine day and said, lets cycle from Manali to Leh. Without realising the gravity of the request, I enthusiastically said, “yes, let’s do it”. Within couple of weeks, the plans started materialising with both of us signing up for a guided cycling tour with Bikat Adventures, a cycling tour to take us from Manali to Leh over 10 days.
We started having practice tours in and around Bangalore, not too many, but just enough to be okay with doing the trip. And we bought a lot of gear for the main tour.
The D-day has arrived. Sangeetha and I flew to Delhi and took a 24-hour bus journey to reach Manali. At Manali, we got to meet couple of other participants joining us for the tour. Kirti, a laywer from Bengalore, Sharath, a structural engineer from Kerala, Mathew from Kerala, Bart & Kaushik, fitness enthusiasts from Netherlands, Ritesh and Priyanka, husband and wife, running a chikki shop in Lonavala, Abhinandan from Pune, Hemang from Mumbai, Cambria, our official photographer from Bikat. Our trek leaders are Rohit and Manjith.
We tested our cycles that day and went for a small ride around Manali. It was great and we got a taste of how our days are gonna like like for the rest of the trip. Loads of fun while moving downwards and plenty of battle while moving upwards. We then had dinner with the entire group and got to introduce ourselves and had a bit of chit-chat before calling it a night.
Day 1 is the toughest. Didn’t people say so?
The D-day is here. We packed our backpacks and put them in the support vehicles and gotten ourselves into our cycling gear. We took our mandatory first picture and just took off…. Only to slowed down 5 minutes later, with neck-to-neck traffic in Manali. Our mission is to reach this place called Marhi and camp there. We got the feel of cycling with group and had lots fun with conversations, taking pictures and stopping at your road side waterfall and filling our bottles for the day long ride. Without long, the uphill began. This was inevitable, if you are riding in the hills. Everyone was talking that if we could make it today, then we could make it on any other day. It was also a bonding time for most of us, as we didn’t know each other couple of days back. Sharadh and I started singing along the way and we were later joined by Kruti. American Pie song, Hum honge kaam yaab made it to the top two cycling songs! We were also fed well in the afternoon with sandwich, bananas and Appy juice. Finally, we reached the camp site in Marhi. It’s private property on a small hill. Tents were already pitched and waiting for us. Abhinandan & I shared a tent and laid our sleeping bags. After a sumptuous dinner of Dal rice, roti, egg curry and soan papdi, we retired to our tents. Just when we realised the day ended, it started pouring. Thank goodness we kept our bags inside the tent.
Day 2 Rohtang Pass, Our first encounter with Ice
Normally, one can reach Rohtang pass within few hours of journey from Manali. Since, we were cycling, we could only travel few tens of kilometers everyday. So, the plan for the second day is to cross Rohtang pass, and make our way to the second camp site. The toughest leg for today’s journey is to reach Rohtang. It’s completely downhill from there. Breakfast was served with Poha, milk and cornflakes. Certainly, breakfast in the hills is meant to be cozy, don’t you think? The journey to Rohtang was severe. The road was very steep and it is ascending really fast. With great difficulty, steady cycling and lot of walking, I reached Rohtang Pass. This is just our second day here, and we were still getting used to cycling uphill. My bicycle also had a puncture and Rohit helped me fix it, by patching it. At Rohtang pass, there were huge blocks of snow but they were mostly dirty. We took our mandatory picture and headed to reach our camp site. This journey was lot more fun, as it was all downhill from Rohtang. The road wasn’t that great and had many bumps, rocks and patches. We thoroughly enjoyed downhill and reached Sissu, our camp site. We camped in one of the forest/garden. It was next to an electrical company and therefore we got ourselves access to a hand pump. Access to running water in the mountains? Hell yeah! We stretched little bit, practiced meditation and later learnt to pitch our tents. Couple of us ventured into the village nearby in pursuit of a PCO booth. The villagers were helpful and gave us access to their personal phones.
Day 3: Keylong, Let’s explore the local market
Day 3 was fun and interesting. In the morning, after everyone gotten ready, Sharadh, Kruti and I played Uno. Yes, Uno is everyone’s favourite and I make sure to carry it everywhere. We started late, after fixing punctures for couple of us. It was mostly downhill most of the way, with very little uphill. We got to go to Keylong market, where Sharadh, Kruti and I explored little further. We ate couple of momos and maggi from the local shop in Keylong. The day was very eventful and ended without a lot of unknown excitement. We reached the day’s end at Jispa, where we were camping for the night. At Jispa, we camped in the grounds of a government building. So, we had access to toilets (Did I say toilets like I’m super excited!! Yes, every one was very excited to know there are toilets with running water) At Jispa, after setting up the the tents, we learnt to dismantle our bikes and clean it thoroughly. Certainly, a bike rider has to learn how to fix his/her bike when problem arises. The support team also relaxed a bit, as they had an actual kitchen to cook and a dining table where food can be served! We retired joyously. I actually could not sleep and I blamed to my tent mate’s snoring and kept waking him up couple of times saying he is snoring and he should control it. I didn’t annoy him though, but looks like he didn’t like it(which I came to know only at the end of the trip)
Day 4: The benightment
We woke up in the morning and took a bath in an actual bathroom(Yes! That’s a big deal, incase you’re wondering!). Breakfast was served. It was yummy.
As we were sitting inside the dining hall, it started raining pretty heavily. Rohith and Manjith, our trek leaders informed us that we can only start once rain has completely stopped. Meanwhile, Hemang, Kruti, Bart, Kaushik and I started playing Uno. We played around 3–4 rounds. Then, we were informed that there was a landslide few kilometers down the road and we had to wait for it to be cleared up. Not having to cycle immediately, we all took a stroll to a nearby stream and took lots of pictures. Running water in the mountains (even if its moving slowly) is very dangerous. Here anything that’s floating on the stream is carried away really fast. We then heard from few locals that the landslide will take atleast few hours to get cleared up. So, we went to a nearby café, and had tea. Ritesh brought us bakarwadi and shared it with everyone. We ate it and got back to the campsite. Few guys in the group were agitated about inactivity and wanted to ride, even when we were told we couldn’t cross the landslide. So, after some arguments, we finally decided that we will at-least go and check it out, to assess the situation. It was pouring and we wore our rain jackets and started riding. It was a lot of fun while going, as it was a fun downward trip to a gate (connecting two mountains). The military men who were standing there told us that it will at-least take 3–4 hours to get cleared and we were asked to go back. Plenty of vehicles(especially trucks) were waiting patiently at the gate. We were completely wet by this time, but enjoyed the way back to the camp.
We dried ourselves and sat down at the dining table. We were served lunch. After this time, since we had to pass away some time, Manjith suggested that we could play “Mafia” . I volunteered to explain the rules and conduct the game. Game master, the name of my role. I conducted couple of rounds of Mafia. It was really interesting and learning experience to manage 13 people at the same time. I was told that the people playing the game enjoyed themselves too. This became more apparent to me, as everyone demanded to play more and more rounds of mafia the coming days. At around 4pm, Rohith came and told us that roads are open and we can move. The plan was to board the cars and reach Zing Zing Bar and camp there for the night. We took couple of hours to remove our tents, disassemble our bicycles (to be boarded on the top of the vehicles) and settle in our cars. We also had to put the rain sheets on the vehicles so that none of our bags get wet. We crossed the gate but we were stuck in traffic. There were 100s of trucks lined up on the road, all waiting for the road to next one to pass. Some of the trucks have been standing there from the morning. They were also cooking and having dinner. We overtook few trucks, but came to a realisation that we can’t go further till the trucks before us move forward. In the vehicles, Abhinandan, Bart and Kaushik were rallying the rest to stand up against the trek leaders and convince them we could go forward on the cycle, the next day. They were asking that we should at-least stick to time(we normally woke up and lazed around the camp, before starting with the day). Fair enough! Meanwhile, Rohith and Manjith gave signal to our car drivers to start heading back. By this time, the truck drivers were offended that we overtook them while going and refused to give us way, even when were returning back. After some heated negotiation, they caved in. We drove to an army area and asked them if they could accommodate us. No luck. Finally, we found one camp area to pitch our tents. We were told there is a word for unplanned camping — Benightment. We pitched only the kitchen and dining tent and not the other individual tents as we were late and tired. So, 12(I think) of us squeezed in one tent. We had to adjust and sleep in two rows. This was fun and cozy and everyone liked sleeping together. It was warm inside the tent. We also played one/two rounds of Mafia. By this time, everyone accepted (except me) that I should not be playing mafia and I am a good game master. We also kept telling ghost stories aloud in the tent. This experience made me understand why people love to sleep in a group, especially in villages and in large families ;)
Day 5: Crossing an Active Landslide
The trek leaders’ plan was to reach Zing Zing Bar or Baralacha La Pass, assemble the cycles and start from there. Few enthusiastic people from the group were pressuring that we came all the way here to cycle and they don’t want to sit in the vehicle. They wanted to cycle from the camp site itself. So, the trek leaders agreed. We unpacked, assembled our cycles and started. 85kms to cover today, with 45kms downhill. It was raining, windy and cold. We were dressed for the weather and prepared to cycle, whatever be the case. We crossed the traffic from yesterday(yes, trucks from yesterday are still standing there) and reached the landslide area. There were rocks laid down to block the passage of any more water or rocks, but it could still be tricky to cross. Very delicate. We managed by slowly lifting our bicycles and crossing the place. I crossed the place carefully but got my socks wet. It would spoil the rest of my cycling upwards. I didn’t bother about it, and was cycling with renewed enthusiasm, and was riding just behind the leaders of our group, even though it was mostly uphill and had plenty of turns. We reached a restaurant-cum-shop near Zing Zing Bar and I bought myself a near pair of socks(this one’s woolen… Woot!). I ate an omelette and couple of biscuits and chilled for a bit. Another 20km uphill. The weather became extreme at this point and the cycling became really hard. My hands are frozen and numb and no thanks to my cycling gloves, which are completely wet. Every part of my body was wet and numb, but not my legs. I had to keep cycling. I need to make it through the day. Manjith caught up with me, which was good, as I now can follow him.
When we approached a narrow lane near Suraj Tal lake, I had a strange feeling. Suddenly, I was out of breath. I could see rocks falling on the road ahead from above. This is literally a corridor of death. One of the rock could tumble me from the road into the lake. Suddenly, I was super dazed and couldn’t think for myself, not knowing what is happening. It was just an overwhelming feeling that I remember. Manjith overtook me and then shouted back “Run”. I took him literally, and got down from my bicycle and started running. In between, I had to stop for taking breath, but Manjith started shouting at me again. I had to keep running. I crossed the corridor and reached Manjith. We also saw Abhinandan and Kruti at the far end of the corridor. Manjith directed them, by staying stop and start, making sure that they are not under the falling rocks. I saw their faces and they look really pale, shocked by what they experienced. At this point, a biker came to us and said that one of our friends was feeling breathlessness below. Sangeetha! Manjith said goodbye to us and started cycling down to help Sangeetha. Kruti and Abhinandan thought they needed some rest and went and sat in the support vehicle. I told myself that I can go on and I must go on. I crossed everyone and started cycling again.Uphill. 10kms more.. 9kms more… 12kms more… wait what? The road signs are clearly screwed up. I cant see anyone. I am also shocked by the experience, but I thought I could carry on. If only, I could see someone, or if the weather was better, or if the roadsigns are correct.. I could get some courage to keep moving forward. Nope, not today. I decided that I should go back to the support vehicle and not take a risk. I was genuinely afraid to go forward. I came back to the support vehicle and after a little while later, Manjith brought Sangeetha, safe and sound. I went inside the vehicle and sat next to them. I didn’t realize how cold I was, till someone passed me a towel to warm myself. I was shaking uncontrollably for the next 15 minutes, shivering. We put our bicycles on the support vehicle and reached a restaurant-cum-hotel shack where we joined the rest of the group.
We were given thick blankets to wrap ourselves in, while we waited for hot maggi, and listened to the stories of dreadfulness and danger that has brought all of us together. There was also a hot flame, on top of which, we could keep our legs and warm it. The blankets were very cozy and we bonded again, regaling and re-enacting the story of how everyone crossed the dangerous and nightmarish Baralacha la. Baralacha La, the name will echo in our minds forever. A place whose experience, if told or written down would never do justice to the actual experience we had. And suddenly we had an unique experience that resonated with everyone in the group. This brought everyone even closer for the rest of the trip.
We reached a nearby camp site. Benightment, as we didn’t plan to camp here. We pitched the kitchen tent and dining tent. We ate and slept after the heaviness of the day.
Day 6 The car ride
The group members who were insisting on cycling yesterday, succumbed to the whims of the mountain. They let the trek leaders know that they will support them in their decisions, unquestionably. Bart even suggested that he is ready to ride on the car, all the way to Leh. Haha! No one can move the mountains. The mountains moves everyone. We had egg burji and roti for breakfast and started. This day, we didn’t get to cycle. The trek leaders wanted to ensure that we are on schedule and since we were far behind, we mounted our cycles on the van and headed to our camp site for the day. Bart, Kaushik, Abhi, Mathew, Sharath and I sat in one car. We were having lot of interesting conversations, including my idea of generating power while walking/cycling. We crossed the famous, daring Gata loops (21 hairpin bends) on the car, that we should have cycled had the land slide didn’t occur. We crossed Naki La, Whisky Nala and Lungalacha La. We had dal and chawal for lunch and finally camped near Pang. It was next to a military transit camp. After assembling our tents, some of us decided to go the camp to access a PCO booth, to call our eagerly awaiting families. The PCO booth charged us 6 rupees per minute. Imagine, the thought of using PCO booth in the year of 2017. I don’t think I have used a PCO booth in the last five or more years. Abhinandan, my tent mate, decided to shift to another tent, with Hemang. We also gathered around and had a small discussion to leave by 7am in the morning. I slept alone in my tent. It was an experience in itself. I originally feared a little. There was continuous wind, rain and howling from dogs. With some determination I slept off.
Day 7 The most easy day
If there was any easy cycling day on the trip, it’s definitely day 7. It’s also the most enjoyable. We climbed for about 6km and found the scene to be beautiful. Breathtaking. It was all flat from here. Bart and Kaushik showed us push ups. Bart actually did front clap pushups, back clap pushups and then finally super-man pushups. Wow! Crazy! This guy has serious core strength. The road was flat for the next 40kms. We enjoyed riding easily, taking time to talk to each other, telling each other stories, etc. We also took plenty of pictures lying on the road. There was literally no other peole for kms in all directions, expect us. Towards the end, we had to go offroad for about 6km till we reached our camp. Today, the weather was amazing and when we reached the camp, it was quite sunny. We just took mat and lied down under the sun. Later some of us went to Tsokar lake. The beauty of the lake was breathtaking, as it shows the shadow of the hills nearby. One of the other bikat guys who wasn’t part of our group, but was touring nearby, found us. He had a Royal Enfield bike, which Sharad and I took turns to ride near the lake. Biking in the mountains — Check. In the night it became really cold. We all ate. I conducted one round of mafia and I went to bed. During these days, we got accustomed to Bart’s wake up call in the morning. “Wakey, wakey”
Day 8 Tanglang La — Successful Mind tricks
22km to Tanglang La — Second highest motorable pass in the world with 17000 feet (5260m) tall. At the start of the day, we were off-roading to get to the main road. We had to trace back the 6kms of off-roading from the last day. It was quite fun, easy and good warmup for us. We then had to climb 22km to the pass. We started slowly (mostly flat roads in the beginning). Then, we were circling and climbing mountains. It wasn’t that steep, but we still had to climb. If you look back or even down or sometimes even in-front, the roads from one mountains to another, it looks pretty scary. The actual experience was better but my legs started getting tired after every passing kilometer. Bart and I met the Scottish guy (whom we have met before during the trip). He told us about his take on the Baralacha la experience two days back. He has been travelling for over 10 months across Thailand, Bhutan and then he felt Baralacha la was the scariest. Great!<sarcasm> We happen to have such amazing luck on our side to match his scariest day. During the climb, I kept distracting myself to make sure I don’t keep stopping. I kept telling my mind that I can stop at the nearest rock, only to change my goal post to the next rock, when I am near that rock. I could keep going without stopping for 2–3kms at time(and remember I was very tired, and I was climbing the second highest motorable pass). Having done many kms, finally I made it to the top. I was dead tired. We took our mandatory pic with the group and started heading downhill
At first I was scared that I am too tired that I will fall asleep down hill. But soon I realised that it was pretty effortless (actually I didn’t have to move my pedal) and I was literally flying at times. It can get pretty freakishly scary looking at all the curves and you could go really fast there. We reached the bottom of the mountain, passed many beautiful villages. We also gotten hold of a PCO and called our parents from there. We finally reached a beautiful Buddhist village called Lodi. The camp site is definitely a desktop wallpaper picture turned alive. We had one day before we reach Leh. As, we were at the end of the trip, we told our trek leaders that we would like to sleep in the dining tent and play Mafia. Haha! One family we have become in the last few days :)
Day 9 Getting Leh’d
We woke up early in the morning, excited to go. We got ready and started. It was all downhill for a while. We were enjoying going down really fast. There were many Tibetian/Buddhist villages along the way and we took pictures rining the bell. During the beginning of the day, we came to know that Cambria got injured as she fell from her bicycle. We were worried and was hoping that she would be okay. She was taken to the hospital. As we continue our journey, we crossed a military base. It was well equipped with Howitzers, Tanks, etc. In the afternoon, we reached a monastery. It was beautiful. To go the top, we had to climb a lot of steps. We had lunch nearby and then started climbing to reach Leh. The climb was very steep and we were struggling to keep going forward, especially last 5kms of the distance. It’s often said that the last few kilometers of any activity are the hardest, and this definitely proves the statement. To get to the hotel, last 1km, we had to go through a really steep road. I kept pushing myself saying that I’m almost there. Finally, We made it! Phew!! Manali — Leh done and dusted (well, not really, we still have Khardung La the next day).
I have covered Khardung La in a seperate blog. Do check it out, if you liked this one.
