Khardung La is the highest motorable pass in the world, with an elevation of 5,359m. It is 39km by road from Leh. The first 24 km, as far as the South Pullu check point is paved. For the rest of the journey (around 15 km), the roadway is primarily loose rock, dirt, and occasional rivulets of snow melt.
Preparations for Khardungla started two days prior to the D day. We dreaded the climb. Someone mentioned that only one person has ever completed the climb(on a bicycle) in the entire Bikat history(Bikat is our tour organizer) . We all knew, what that meant. It might be impossible for us. At the same time, we thought, let’s give it try.
After reaching Leh, Bart and I started thinking about diet requirements for the climb. Also Bart, Ritesh and I also ensured that we clean our bicycles, just to make sure that nothing should go wrong. It might increase our odds of finishing the climb by 5%. The entire group unanimously decided that we should leave the hotel at 5am (Yes, we all knew that determination and will are known to move mountains). We wanted to give ourselves a chance in finishing the climb.
The elevation at Leh is 3500m. We will gaining about 2000m of elevation when we reach the top.
As decided earlier, we left the hotel by 5 o’clock in the morning. It was pretty dark and we quickly reached the road leading to Khardung La. 39kms to top. We were all pretty energetic and looking forward to the day. We were supposed to reach South Pullu and wait for necessary permissions (everyone passing through this area need permission to go forward) before starting again to Khardung La.
Worst come worse, I will at least reach South Pullu.
I was told that the distance to South Pull is about 18km. Only after starting the trip, I realised that this information was erroneous. The distance to South Pullu is about 25kms(more than half way point to Khardung La). I was happy in a way, that my goal has changed. I can relax only after 25kms, instead of the original 18km (I wanted to be closer to my goal).
25kms uphill was pretty hard and tiring. At many points, I desperately tricked and deceived my mind. I kept telling myself that I will stop at the stone in front of me, but once I crossed that stone, I immediately shifted that goal to the next stone in front of me. This helped. I knew that if I stopped everywhere I wanted to, it will become very difficult to reach the top. Yes, after lot of mind tricks and many desperate hours later, I finally reached South Pullu. I was also glad to see some members of the group there. It’s a morale booster to me, to know that I’m not lagging behind.
Bhagwan, mujhe utha le!! (Oh God, please take me to you)
I was dead tired at this point, and kept telling other people that maybe, I might not be able to continue much longer.
We had quick lunch and started again. Another 14kms. Common, let’s do this! I originally thought that I will keep up with the company of others, but within the first 1km, I was already lagging behind. My tired body is not letting me catch up with others. I knew my only companion now is the sign boards. I just have to to start counting down as the sign boards come. ..12km… 10km.. 9km… Keep going on. I don’t know how much more I cycled. Probably another 2kms more. I didn’t see any sign board. Sigh! And I was almost dead with all the tiredness.
**Sigh!** The sign boards have disappeared!
Keep going on. No!! okay, let’s walk at the least. The road was terrible, so it was okay to talk. And so I walked. Rocks and rumbles and downward water. It wasn’t a pleasant walk. The curves of the mountains were never ending. I kept walking. Another 1 or 2 kms. I did not know. Our support staff met me near a support vehicle and said, “Keep going on”. He also told me that I had been walking from the last 2kms. I felt ashamed and I told him that I will try cycling from there on. Another 1km. Now, 5kms, more is it? Another 1km. I can’t take it. I started walking. Let’s keep moving. Another 1km, maybe. The support vehicle crossed me. I asked how many more? They said 5 or 6. Sigh…. They offered me a ride saying that the road is equally bad as the last 4kms. I refused. I’m gonna make it on my own.
I cant give up, with my goal post so near!!
Another 2km or more. I kept walking. I couldn’t pedal. I asked a fellow motorcycle, “How many kms?” He took a guess, “Umm.. 3?” Sigh. I walked another 1km or more. I should be near there. Another motorcyclist passing by told me that I’m almost there. Sigh… I thought I could maybe make it to the next curve. I crossed that too. I asked the next motorcyclist and he told me “After that curve, you are home”. Yaay! I kept walking and managed to crossed the curve. Sigh! I could only see more curves. No sign of where I was!
God! Show me some sign that I’m nearby!
After many more curves and several years later and through a black hole(yes, you would feel the time dilation too, if you were here), I saw Sandeep and Sharadh at the end of a curve. They shouted, “You are here!!”. I jumped on my bicycle and started pedalling. Yes, all my exhaustion evaporated knowing I was meters away to my destination.
Claps!! I made it to the end, on my own!
I was applauded by my fellow mates. Yaay! I did it! At this point, I felt like I’m lighter than a feather and I couldn’t feel my body. I made my way to a cafe nearby and sat down, my legs numb.
Courage and determination paved my way to Khardung La. And I knew at that moment, I conquered the toughest of the toughest cycling trips in the world! I conquered Khardung La.
The world is not the same, any more! 🎉🎉🎉
